Things to do in Angers

On April 27, 2019April 27, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

Since I’ve been here for a few months (seven to be exact today, ironically), I figured I would be remiss to not highlight the city where I live, and what there is to do here. Angers, located in the northwest region of France, is not nearly as large as cities that are famously known within France (there’s a reason many people haven’t heard of it), but it isn’t without its charm, and it also isn’t an absolutely minuscule city either (there’s a Starbucks so there’s that)… Along the Loire (in fact, Angers is located in La Maine et La Loire), there are a decent number of things to see, and it makes for the perfect day trip from Nantes or from some of the other surrounding areas such as Rennes, Tours, or Poitiers (you can of course do day trips to these locations from Angers as well if you so choose). Equipped with a train station, one tram line, and several bus routes, getting around town is a breeze, although the center part of Angers is easily walkable. I still wouldn’t say that I’m an expert in this city, but I do feel like I know it decently, so here are some of the highlights I would suggest if you ever decide to visit Angers!

Château d’Angers

Since Angers is part of La Maine et La Loire, it makes sense that it should have a castle. However, unlike other castles in the Loire Valley, Angers’ is not elegant, or refined (or at least, not in the way that one would expect from Chambord, or Chenonceau), and certainly not from the Renaissance. This is a 9th century castle, expanded in the 13th century, which gives it a thoroughly medieval look. You can walk along the ramparts, getting views of the Angers skyline, both sides of the river, and the castle gardens. It also houses the world’s largest medieval tapestry collection, which includes the “Apocalypse Tapestry,” depicting scenes from the Book of Revelation. Extra perk: it’s open seven days a week!

Le Petit Train Touristique

If you’ve only got limited time in Angers, this little train ride is a solid introduction to Angers, and allows you to easily see the parts of Angers on both sides of the river without doing a ton of hefty walking. It’s a 40 minute tour that runs pretty frequently, and lets you take in the scenery, while also hearing the history of the town (be sure to specify language if you need something other than French as the dialogue is projected throughout the whole car, rather than through individual headphones.) It starts and ends in the square in front of the castle, and next to the tourist office.

Musée des Beaux Arts

The Fine Arts Gallery is located in central Angers, and has a fine collection of paintings that date from several eras. My personal favorite part of this museum is that scattered throughout, there are puzzles (mainly for children, but who says you can’t be a child at heart when you visit) of certain paintings and you can sit down and complete them! Some are quite easy but the difficult ones (the kind where the piece isn’t an actual set shape) are quite complex, but I enjoy that they’re taking art appreciation to a new, and fun, level. All the museums in Angers are open seven days a week, so you can pop in any day. They also have a nice cafe, and when it’s nice outside, a courtyard where you can enjoy their delicacies in the sun.

Puzzles are available to patrons of the museum of different paintings. Here I am attempting to finish the 100 piece one! — Hard at work on one of the puzzles available to do in the museum

Watch the Sunset from the Promenade du Bout du Monde

Right next to the castle, there is a lookout point at the end of the Promenade du Bout du Monde, or the walk to the end of the world. Although you don’t actually walk to the end of the world (that would be a pretty good claim to fame), you get a beautiful panoramic view of La Doutre, the side of Angers across La Maine. It’s especially beautiful at sunset, and is a popular place to hang out when the weather is nice.

Sunset over Angers as seen from the Promenade du bout du monde

Cathédral Saint Maurice d’Angers

Like many French cities, Angers wouldn’t be complete without a cathedral. A mix of Romanesque and Gothic architecture, the cathedral has beautiful stained glass, a grand organ, and a stone floor to accentuate the 11th and 16th century designs. It isn’t as ornate as other French cathedrals, but that doesn’t make it unremarkable, or unworthy of a visit.

Maison d’Adam

Also known as the “La Maison des Artisans,” this 15th century house is home to artisanal goods, made by more than 80 craftsmen from all over the Loire Valley. Here, you can find handblown glass, sculptures, woodcrafts, and many other fine handmade goods. Located right next to the Cathedral, and at the heart of historic Angers, this house is one of the oldest half-timbered houses in France. Whether you want to go inside or not, the outside is enough to marvel at, and it’s definitely worth seeing as you wander through the city.

Jardin du Mail

If you’re looking for a picturesque spot to enjoy your lunch, sit and chat, or just marvel at your time in France, le jardin du Mail is a perfect location for you. It’s a park located in centre-ville, complete with a gushing fountain, and pagoda, perfect for those glamor shots of the city. Although it may seem unimpressive, it’s a beautiful place to walk, and highlights the fact that Angers is one of the greenest (color wise) cities in France.

English Library

Something that I wasn’t expecting to find in Angers was an English library! It’s one of only two (I think) in the country, so we’re especially lucky to have it. Having it available to assistants means that for us primary assistants, we can easily check out children’s books for our youngest classes, or for supplementary material if needed. It also means that I was able to check out books for my own perusal while I was working, so I had something to take my mind off of work, and my eyes off of a screen. They also organize monthly pizza and games nights, movie nights, and other fun activities so if you’re missing hearing some English, it’s definitely worth heading over to check it out!

Musée Jean Lurçat et de la tapisserie contomporaine

Another of Angers’ museums, this one focuses on tapestries. It is housed in two buildings, one of which has a collection of various tapestries ranging from the 20th century, through to today (hence the contemporary part of the museum’s title), and other works, while the other resides in a hospital complex from the 12th century. The latter houses Jean Lurçat’s 1960s tapestry series, so along with the beautiful architecture of the building, you can also view very large, and exquisite tapestries that speak to the state of the world at the time. It’s not a large museum, so it doesn’t take too much time to see it all, but it makes a change from typical art museums. (Unlike the other museums of Angers, this one is located on the other side of the river, but only about a 20/25 minute walk from centre-ville).

Tapestries in the old hospital at the musée Jean-Lurçat

Musée David D’Angers

If sculpture is more your cup of tea than painting, the musée David D’Angers is just the place for you. Located just around the corner from the fine arts museum, this particular space is filled with sculptures from the renowned artist David D’Angers, who as the name suggests, came from Angers. The building itself is beautiful, with a glass roof that used to be the roof to an abbey, you’ll see statues, sketch works, and busts, all sculpted by David D’Angers, which makes the collection that much more impressive.

There you have it! Of course, there are more fun things to check out in Angers, but these have been some of my top things to do/see while I’ve been here. There are also neighboring cities accessible by bus that offer more to see and explore! Although Angers might not be the most “happening” city in France, I’m glad I was placed here during my TAPIF experience, and have enjoyed my time here.

Whatever you choose to do, Angers is a great place in France to visit, and well worth the trip! Even if you may not be able to fill a whole week up with activities, a day or two is more than enough to fully appreciate Angers. I highly recommend checking it out if you have the chance 🙂

CAEN you believe it (+ Bayeux)

On April 21, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

Bienvenue en Normandie! Obviously, I was already partially there in Rouen, but Caen feels like you’re in true Normandie territory. I literally only had one day to explore as the day I left was a Sunday (and Easter Sunday to boot) so as we know by now, nothing was open. I had a jam packed Saturday, and here’s how it went down:

I woke up early to catch a train to Bayeux, which is only 15 minutes away from Caen, so very easily accessible. I walked straight to the Bayeux Tapestry museum, which houses the iconic tapestry for which the museum is named. There’s an audio guide that narrates each scene in the tapestry, and helps you navigate your way through the story. I found it very helpful, and a fun way to ensure that everyone can truly enjoy the tapestry. It’s very impressive to see it in person, and even more so when you think about everything it survived in order to still be here today (I mean, it was made 1000 years ago, and has survived through two world wars). There’s also an exhibit which discusses more about the tapestry’s history, along with the techniques used to create it, and the history of the contents within the tapestry. I wasn’t as excited by the exhibit (I personally think it should be before the viewing of the tapestry), but I was also rushing a bit to ensure that I got to the museum of the battle of Normandy before it closed for lunch (yes, you read that right, the museums close for two hours at lunch time). Even with my rushing, I still spent over an hour there, although the audio guide itself is 25 minutes.

There are three museums within the Bayeux Museum “complex,” but I only opted to visit two (if you know you want to visit more than one, you can buy a slightly reduced rate that contains entrance to more than one museum). The other museum I visited was the Musee de la bataille de Normandie, which is, as the title suggests, a museum dedicated to the Normandie beach landings, and everything that occurred afterwards in order to liberate Caen (and the rest of France). It’s certainly extensive, and it highlights every single beach landing that took place in early June (this year is the 75th anniversary of those same beach landings, as it happens). What I found most fascinating was the information about the two months that followed those landings. I feel like a lot of us learn about the beach landings and then the end of the war (without much in between relating to Normandie), but I was glad to learn of everything that truly went into liberating Caen, and then ultimately Paris. They have artefacts, and relics from those who served in WWII, along with providing great context for how important Normandie was in the outcome of the war. If you’re interested in any aspect of WWII, this is definitely a place to visit.

After the museums, I took a brief walk around the Cathedral. Remarkably, Bayeux was relatively unscathed following the war (the tapestry survived for one), so many of the structures are still original. I should’ve kept a list of all the cathedrals I’ve visited in this country because the number is probably quite large at this point. Bayeux Cathedral

Bayeux Cathedral

After all that sightseeing, I had a lovely tartiflette for lunch before hopping on the quick train back to Caen. Seeing as it was now after lunch, my time was limited so I set straight to visiting what I wanted to see. I walked from the train station to the chateau de Caen, which is a middle aged castle that sits atop a small incline, overlooking the city. Entrance to the ramparts is free, so you’re able to wander around as much as you like, and adore the views onto the city. It’s a large expanse, and with a lot of greenery, so it seems to be a place to picnic or hang out when the sun is shining (which again, it was doing quite beautifully while I was there). It was fun to climb up and look out at Caen, and as in many French cities, I love seeing the difference between modern rooftops, and the spires of older churches/cathedrals that poke out periodically. View from Caen Castle

Seeing ancient architecture amongst modern is always fascinating to me

Inside the ramparts, however, are two museums (for which there is a fee associated, but if you’re under 26, like yours truly, then it’s free!) There’s the musée de Normandie, which is a history museum of Normandie. The beginning of the museum is similar to many in that there’s a Neolithic age, Stone Age, and all that Jazz. It gets more interesting when the Vikings come into the picture, and then more so when they discuss what makes this region unique from others in France. There was also an “images of Caen” exhibit in the ramparts associated with the museum, which had paintings, photographs, and other images of the city throughout time, which was interesting to see how it has evolved! There was even a painting with one of the Louis’ (don’t ask me which one, I don’t remember, and there are too many of them) receiving the keys to the city!

The other museum is the fine arts museum, which offers two floors of paintings that span several centuries. I hadn’t originally planned on visiting it, but the combination of a free ticket, plus the Gilets Jaunes convening outside (it was a Saturday, typical), meant that I went inside to have a peek around. I wouldn’t say it’s a must-see, but I’m also not the biggest fine arts museum person (I have a limit, and I’ve done a lot this trip).

I certainly didn’t see everything in Caen, or even skim the surface of Normandie, but I’m glad I added it to my list of cities to visit. I can’t believe how quickly my two weeks went by, but just like that, my mini Tour de France is complete, and I can now check off so many beautiful cities from my ever growing list of places to visit.

One day in Rouen (plus a short day trip to Le Havre)

On April 19, 2019April 19, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

I’m up North now, in Normandie! It took a while to get here from Southern Bordeaux (three trains, and four hours to be exact), but that didn’t diminish my enthusiasm for exploring. Having only one full day here, I wanted to see a lot, and it is possible to hit most (if not all) of the big things here in one day, although of course, you can space it out over two so as not to feel like a race against the clock the whole time.

I started my morning off by walking through the Vieux Marché. If you come back later in the day, there can be a market of fish and meat set up. There are also brasseries and bars surrounding the square, as well as a modern church dedicated to Joan of Arc (more on why she’s so renowned in this area in a bit). Here, you can also see a vast array of the half timbered houses which litter the city. Rouen definitely felt like one of the older cities I visited on this trip, and these houses are partially the reason for that feeling. View of Rouen from Gros Horloge

Half timbered houses blend in with modern architecture

Just a few minutes walk away is the Cathedral Notre Dame de Rouen. Much like the cathedral baring the same name in Paris, the facade of the one in Rouen is equally ornate. There’s a spire, and several detailed carvings anywhere you want to look. The inside is vast and large, although to me, it was not nearly as impressive as the exterior. I don’t know how often the bells ring, but I had dinner in the square in front of the cathedral, and listened to the bells for a solid 7/8 minutes, and I would highly recommend it as an experience in Rouen. Cathedral notre dame de Rouen

Cathedral Notre Dame de Rouen

Just around the corner, you can find the Historial Jeanne d’Arc, a modern museum dedicated to the retrial for Joan of Arc following her death. Joan of Arc was put on trial, and ultimately burnt alive in Rouen, hence her importance in the city. This museum focuses on the retrial that ultimately “exonerated” her, and proved that her first trial had been heavily biased. The museum has five rooms through which you walk, and then sit to watch a video presentation in each one, as you follow the retrial chronologically. The videos are very well done, and it’s a creative way to tell the history. It’s difficult to explain, so I’ll leave it at the fact that you have to see it to understand what I mean. They also have an audio guide that translates the videos as you watch them!

Since at this point it was lunch time, and some attractions take a lunch break as well, I decided to walk by the palais de justice. This building has elements from the 14th century, and although I didn’t go in (I’m not even sure you can), the exterior is definitely something to be seen. You can tell it’s from a similar period to the rest of the old part of town, and it made me wonder what the inside must look like! This was definitely a quick stop of mine, but if you appreciate old architecture, it’s worth a stop. Palais de Justice in Rouen

The architecture can transport you back in time (if it weren’t for the modern car sitting out front)

Following along the old history trail of Rouen, I next visited the Gros Horloge, or the big clock. It’s hard to miss it, and it definitely lives up to its name. The clock offers admittance to climb up the belfry, as well as to see the inner workings of the clock itself, all while listening to an audio guide that explains how it all works, and what the significance of this clock was. There are “some 100 steps,” but when you reach the top, there’s a panoramic view of the city. It’s important to note that this attraction closes from 12-2, so you have to visit it either before or after lunch (I opted for after), and that only 30 people are allowed up at a time, so the earlier you get there, the more likely you won’t have to wait to start climbing! Gros Horloge in Rouen

Gros Horloge and Belfry Tower

Panoramic view from the Gros Horloge — View of the cathedral from the top of the Gros Horloge

After climbing all those steps, I decided that it would be a good idea to walk almost 2 miles to the jardin des plantes, way on the other side of the Seine. The old city of Rouen is fairly concentrated in one area, so of course, this one attraction had to be super far out… it seems to me that a lot of cities have these kinds of gardens, but this one in particular is massive (I know, it feels like I say this about every garden I visit). You could easily spend several hours here, or even potentially get lost! There’s a play area for kids, green houses, pétanque and basketball courts, grassy areas, and so much more. I feel like I barely scratched the surface and I wandered around for almost an hour! It’s obviously a place to go when the sun is out, and it was a lovely 74 (or 24 for the Celsius speaking world), complete with shining sun, and accompanying minor sunburn.

To save time (and myself from getting too sweaty), I took the “metro” back into the old part of town. I use quotation marks because it does go underground, but it’s more a tram that does so, rather than a full on underground metro service. In fact, when it does go underground, it really isn’t that far down, but it’s still a good form of transport! Most of the stops seem to be on the opposite side of the Seine from where all the historical things are, but I would highly recommend it for getting to and from the jardin des plantes, especially if you’re pressed for time or the sun is too hot!

If you still have more time in your day after that jam packed schedule, you can also visit the tour de Jeanne d’Arc, the tower where Joan of Arc was held prisoner and faced trial. You can also ask the tourism office for a Joan of Arc passport to follow more of her “steps” as you discover Rouen.

There’s also the Fine Arts museum, along with seven other Rouen museums whose permanent collections are now free to the public, so if you’re stumped for things to do, there’s no shortage of museums! I only visited the Fine Arts one but let me tell you, it is FULL of paintings, and labyrinth like so trust me when I say it feels like it’s never ending. It almost becomes a game to find your way out! That being said, there are a lot of beautiful paintings and sculptures, and something for truly every taste.

• Day trip to Le Havre •

Since I had the better part of a day before my 6pm train to Caen, I decided to take a short half day trip to Le Havre. Trains are pretty frequent and the ones I took clocked in at a little under an hour each way. Le Havre, like many cities in Normandie, had to rebuild after WWII, and chose to rebuild in a modern way. As such, this is reflected in the architecture, and even though there is still a remaining old quarter, much of the city feels new and modern.

Since I was only there for four hours, I did what was easily accessible by foot from the train station. As such, I visited the musée de l’armateur, which is an art museum in an old house where merchants resided, and which was used as a trading office. It’s on five floors, and you’re given a 100 page booklet filled with information regarding every piece in the museum. There’s a lot, but it’s an interesting visit.

I also visited two churches while there. The cathedral, which survived WWII, and is one of the oldest buildings in Le Havre, and l’église de St. Joseph, which is shaped like a lighthouse. The inside of the former is currently being renovated, while the latter is filled with stained glass all the way up to the top. Eglise st Joseph in Le Havre

Eglise de St. Joseph – that definitely looks like a lighthouse, right?

There’s also a large shopping center located near the docks. It’s just across from the train station, and offers a view of a marina, and the large harbor. The sun was shining while I was out, so it made everything that much more beautiful. I had wanted to do the jardin suspendus but unfortunately they were a little too far out for me to hit and still make my train. Even with that though, it was still a great four hours, and I’m glad I ventured beyond Rouen.

Definitely not being bored in Bordeaux

On April 17, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

Is my title punny enough for you?

Moving along through France, I couldn’t avoid wine country, and that leads us straight to Bordeaux (I should say whether you’re a fan of wine or not, this is still an interesting place to visit). It took me 2.5 hours via train from Toulouse, but it definitely didn’t feel that long. The center of town is a bit away from the train station, so my hostel was a half hour walk away. Once I got in, I headed out to dinner, and it quickly started pouring! I seem to have bad luck with the skies opening up on this trip!

My only full day in Bordeaux was a beautiful one, with the sun shining, and temperatures high enough to go out without a scarf (gasp, I know, but the French are still wearing one anyway, go figure). I started out the morning with a visit to the Cathedral, which seemed somewhat more poignant following the fire at Notre Dame the night before. I found the architecture outside to be of more interest to me than what was inside but that being said, the stained glass windows always catch my eye.

Bordeaux is a fairly easily walkable town, so I next walked to la grosse cloche, which is a big bell, although it also has a big clock on its side as well. The time is accurate although the date read in June, so not 100% perfect, but it’s still a fun thing to see randomly as you walk through town. La Grosse Cloche in Bordeaux

La Grosse Cloche

As you walk along, there’s also a Basilica, although I only saw the outside of it so I can’t fully attest to its “cool” factor. However, the exterior is beautiful, although not as striking as the basilicas in Lyon or Marseille that I’ve seen so far on this trip.

I also took some time to learn about Aquitaine’s history at the Musée d’Aquitaine. It was a seemingly never ending museum that touched on the history of the region from prehistory all the way to the 21st century. It was definitely impressive to see so many artifacts and relics of history, as well as to see how old this area of France truly is! At one point, I did stop reading the information cards and just started looking because it got to be a bit too much… (additionally, the English translations stop once you enter the Middle Ages, and don’t start back up for a while, which could’ve contributed to my lack of willingness to read as well).

Since the weather was so lovely, I had a picnic on the esplanade des Quinconces, or at least, on the Quai beneath it and overlooked the water as I basked in the sunlight (you can also partake in the very French hobby of people watching). As I was so near, I went over to the jardin public, which is a large expanse of park (a lovely escape from the bustling city life), and even contains a botanic garden! I believe the fine arts museum is also housed in the garden, so there are a multitude of things you can visit there! I love the big parks that exist in big cities here, and the fact that so many people visit and spend time in them.

The thing that kind of made the biggest impression on me in Bordeaux was this thing called the miroir d’eau. It’s a large water pond that serves as a reflecting pool for the buildings surrounding it (although I should say it empties and fills with water so sometimes it’s just a reflective surface). It’s both a play thing for people young and old (who doesn’t get a kick out of splashing through not even ankle deep water), and something beautiful to admire. It’s worth seeing it during the day and at night to truly get the full effect. When the lights on the buildings turn on after sunset, it’s really a sight to see, and makes for some stunning photographs. Many people gather for the photo opportunity, and just for the pretty sight. Miroir d’Eau by day

Miroir d’Eau by day

Seeing as this is wine country, I would’ve been remiss to not at least taste a small sample. There are two museums for wine: cité du vin (which is very modern, and apparently takes a lot of time to explore), and the museum of trade and wine. I opted for the latter, both due to its smaller price (only €5 at a reduced rate!), and it seemed less intense. For the entry fee, you get to explore some wine caves that discuss the history of the wine industry in Bordeaux, which is quite extensive! It was super interesting to learn about the way wine used to be bottled, how it was traded, and its significance to the area. Moreover, the museum itself is situated in an old wine merchant’s house, so you’re actually stepping through history. After your self guided tour through the two caves, you’re treated to a wine tasting. Having got there earlier in the day, I got essentially a private information session about wine in Bordeaux, and I learned a decent amount. For instance, did you know that the wines are named after grapes (i.e. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot…)? Maybe you did, but I certainly didn’t! Bordeaux has six main grapes, three red and three white, as well as six wine production regions. I got to try two wines: a claret, and a red wine, as well as a chocolate covered wine dipped dried grape! I’m not the biggest red wine fan but I actually really enjoyed the claret, and I’m proud to say, drank the whole sample! I may not be a wine connaisseur, but I certainly felt sophisticated doing a wine tasting, and now I know what to look for when I’m testing out what wines best suit my palette. It was honestly a great experience and it was well worth the entry price!

Another highlight of my days in Bordeaux was the fact that I got to meet up with a fellow alumna from Scripps! I don’t mind solo travel, but it becomes that much more enjoyable when you get to do things with other people, and when you have someone to talk to throughout the day! I’m not disparaging the other cities I’ve visited, but it’s been super fun to have a travel buddy, even if only for a day and a half.

That was my Bordeaux adventures! Other interesting things to see include all the portes (doors, sometimes more like giant gates), that are around the city’s circumference, and I’m sure they once held significance regarding entering and exiting, but they’re fairly elaborate and it’s almost comical as they just stand amongst all the modern architecture. One such example is the Porte Cailhau.

I’m headed up North for the last leg of my April holidays, but so far, the cities I’m visiting have yet to disappoint me, and I’m pleased with all I’ve been able to achieve!

Throwing it back, and revisiting Toulouse

On April 15, 2019April 15, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

When I was in fifth grade, our class trip was to Toulouse, where we spent 10 days in a science camp slightly outside the city. I have nothing but fond memories of my time in Toulouse, so when deciding where to go for my mini Tour de France, I knew that I had to go back and (re)visit Toulouse. I am pleased to say that my time here 12 years later was equally as positive as it was my first time here.

I arrived in Toulouse around 6pm following a 3.5hour train ride from Marseille. After dropping my things at my hostel, I decided to take advantage of the remaining sunlight, and do a quick wander. Since none of the sights were open, I opted to instead do some shopping at my all time favorite: Primark. Don’t worry, I didn’t spend that much, but I always have to visit one whenever I see one! I walked from there to the Pont Neuf to see the views of the Garonne River, and crossed over just because. There were many people sitting and standing along the bridge and water front in preparation for the sunset, especially now that the weather has become a little nicer. Toulouse is named la ville rose, or the pink city due to the color of the roofs, but also because of the color the sun makes as it hits the buildings. I didn’t stay around for sunset, but I did get to see that lovely pink color on the Mairie in the Place de La Capitole as I strolled back in for the night. Mairie de Toulouse in Place de la Capitole at sunset

Place de la Capitole living up to la ville rose’s reputation

My first full day in Toulouse was a Saturday, which is also Gilets Jaunes day. I happened to be in town for “act 22”, and although I didn’t actually see any (I avoided the areas where they were meant to be), I did see the heavy police presence (I’m talking vans blocking several streets, dozens of armed police and gendarmes fully kitted out and even two, what I think were, small tanks). I don’t think I’ll ever be able to look at a high vis vest again.

ANYWAY. Even with that small disruption, I still managed to check off all the things I wanted to see, and hit 40,000 steps in one day – an all time record for me! I started my morning off by visiting La Basilique St. Sernin, which I distinctly remember from my fifth grade visit. Something about its architecture and shape lent itself to being vividly etched in my memory. I admired the inside before heading off on foot to the Jacobin’s Church and Cloister, not too far away. The building isn’t as impressive (or at least, not in the same way as the basilica) on the outside, but there is stained glass adorning every wall inside. There are also cloisters you can visit for a small fee. Since two churches weren’t enough, I decided to complete the trifecta by visiting the Cathédrale Toulouse – Paroisse St. Étienne. Like the other two, it has an ornate interior with stained glass, but I enjoy seeing how different churches look both from the exterior and the interior.

Basilique st Sernin — Basilique Saint Sernin

After all my church exploring, I decided to do some museum venturing. The Museum Toulouse, is located right in the jardin des plantes, and is the natural history museum. I opted to view both the permanent and temporary exhibits (although you can choose just one), since most natural history museums, at their base, contain similar information. Their temporary exhibition was on the Easter Islands, while their permanent exhibits covered everything you would expect from such a museum. At some points, I felt like I was back in my university biology courses! The museum also contains green houses, that lead out into a smaller section of the larger garden. It felt at some points like the museum never ended, and I kept discovering more rooms and more information. I enjoyed the change from my typical history museums!

After eating to refuel from my morning adventures in Place De La Daurade, I took a leisurely stroll along the Canal du Midi. Even though I remember riding a bateau mouche down the canal the last time I was here, I still wanted to “experience” the canal, and admire the twin rows of trees that adorn either side of the water. I didn’t walk the whole thing, but a decent enough portion. It’s also just a very pleasant walk along the banks.

Since Sunday is the day when many things are closed, I thought it would be fun to do a day trip to Carcassonne – somewhere I also visited 12 years ago. It takes anywhere between 45 minutes and a little over an hour depending on what speed of train you get to arrive in Carcassonne, but it’s a fast journey. Carcassonne within itself is a city, but its claim to fame is the walled cité de Carcassonne that looms above. It’s a 23 minute walk from the train station, and the last 10 minutes of that includes a view of the walled city as you walk towards it. Once inside the walls, you can explore the castle to hear about its restoration and its significance in French history. There are also two ramparts you can walk: the Middle Aged one, and the Gallo Roman one. Both offer views of the city, the Pyrenees (on a clear day) and allow you to see how this city was such a stronghold with its long length of ramparts, and imposing structure. Outside the castle area, there’s a church, and several eateries you can visit after exploring the ramparts. From the time my train pulled in to the time it left, I was there for six hours, and that was ample time. If you’re in the Toulouse area, Carcassonne is definitely a must do day trip!

(Unrelated but one of the memories that has stuck with me the most from my class trip is ironically from the bus drive back from Carcassonne. I distinctly remember Bad Day by Daniel Powter coming on the radio and every single one of us belting along with it to the point that the bus driver turned it up… I don’t know why that’s so singed in my memory but it is)

Walking along the ramparts of Carcassonne

Walking along the ramparts

My last day in Toulouse was a Monday, which although it isn’t as empty and quiet as Sunday, there still isn’t everything to do (museums are closed for instance). I visited the Japanese Gardens, which is a small part of a larger garden, and includes a pagoda, rock garden, and iconic red bridge. It felt very similar to gardens I’ve visited in the US, but it’s quite interesting to find one nestled in a large city, and as part of a bigger, unrelated park. I also checked out the larger jardin des plantes, located by the natural history museum. When reading online, I saw there was a sculpture garden (and maybe there is but I wasn’t looking in the right place), but all I found were a few sculptures scattered around the garden. They’re still nice to look at, don’t get me wrong, but it wasn’t quite what I expected. That being said, it is a very large expanse of greenery, and it makes for a nice walk around, or picnic spot if the weather is nice enough!

Another fun thing to do is go in the Capitole. It’s open on weekdays, and the interior is very ornate. Filled with gold plated tiling, and giant paintings adorning every wall, it’s almost a mini museum! The paintings are well worth a peek if you have the time, and entrance is free! Courtyard inside La Capitole

Inside La Capitole, in the courtyard

La Ville Rose was simultaneously as I remembered it, but also a new place to explore. Coming back with fresh (and admittedly older) eyes gave me a different appreciation for Toulouse, and yet, having those fond memories from so many years ago makes it feel that much more (dare I say) special than some of the other cities I’ve visited. Coming alone, I was obviously able to do more than when I was with a group, but seeing some of the same things I saw as a child was super cool, and I’m very glad I came back.

Heading down South: Marseille

On April 12, 2019April 12, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

The next stop on my trip took me down South, or at least, to the South East corner of the country to visit Marseille! I’ve never been to this corner of the country, so it was kind of exciting to get to explore it and even though this is stereotypically thought of as the sunny coastal side of the country, I did have one night of thunder and rain, and another night of just rain, so looks can be deceiving… (of course, I brought the rain with me, just my luck)

From Lyon, it’s a quick 1h45minute train journey, through most of which I’m proud to say I slept – the train was oddly empty, not that I’m complaining! After arriving, I hopped onto the metro (I know, another city with underground transportation, the US really needs to get it together) to get to Vieux Port, where my hostel was located. There’s a decent amount to do in this city, so I’ll hit the key things I saw/did, and what I think you should too if you visit this area of France.

Vieux Port. Known in English as the Old Port, this is the old part of town, and what made Marseille such a pivotal city in the country throughout important eras in history. If you head over there early enough, you can catch the fish market, full of freshly caught fish being sold (you’ll also catch the scent, but it’s quickly breezed away by the slightly ocean air). Vieux Port also has a lot of bars, and eateries, so it’s definitely a hoppin’ place. It seems to be the central place of the city. It also leads into La Canebière, the kind of “high street” of Marseille.

Musée d’histoire de Marseille. As the title suggests, this is the museum of Marseille’s history. Priced at €6/€3 reductions (which applies to non EU students), this is a pretty extensive collection of artifacts found in Marseille from antiquity, through to its history during the world wars, and its place in the country today. There are many models of the city in different eras, as well as of houses, boats, and other historical objects. It’s located on three floors, and my only complaint would be that the ordering felt difficult to follow for me, and that there wasn’t quite enough information about the various eras, and different objects you were observing throughout the museum. It’s oddly located essentially in a mall, but it’s very easily accessible from Vieux Port. There is also an archeological site garden, although this was not open when I visited.

Notre Dame de la Garde. An imposing basilica located atop a hill, this is the perfect viewpoint over Marseille, and also features an ornately decorated interior and high ceilings. The basilica watches over the city, and is one of the defining elements of its skyline. I’m not sure if you can hike up to it, but I took the bus, where the terminus is the basilica, so it was a quick trip in both directions from Vieux Port.

View from notre Dame de la Garde — View from Notre Dame de la Garde

MuCEM, and the Fort de Saint-Jean. A modern looking building overlooking the water, this museum includes several exhibits, as well as a viewing point that can be accessed for free. MuCEM stands for (when translated, hence the acronym not fitting) the Museum of European and Mediterranean civilizations, so the exhibitions speak to this theme. However, much of the space can be accessed without an entry ticket, so best to check what’s on at the moment to see if any of the exhibitions speak to you before immediately purchasing a ticket. From there, you get a sprawling view of the city, the waterfront, and the fort, which can be accessed from the museum via a bridge. Pro tip: there are free toilets on the fort side if you need them (and seeing as you have to pay for them in malls, it’s always good to know where they are!)

Boulevard Longchamp. Exactly as stated, it is a long boulevard, surrounded by trees on either side, leading to the Palais Longchamp, and the towering fountain there. The walk up the boulevard is worth it for the view of the fountain alone as it slowly creeps into view, but inside the palace is where the natural, and fine arts museums are housed, giving it that much more value as a sight to see. Plus, it’s a beautiful reward for having walked the whole boulevard.

Le Corniche. A long stretch of sidewalk that runs along the coast, this is a perfect walk (okay, more of a trek, it is over 2 miles), scooter journey, run, or bike ride that’s accompanied with fantastic views. You can start from Vieux Port and walk until you reach it, or take the bus from Vieux Port (number 83) to La Plage – the Prado Beach – and start walking from there. It was definitely a long walk, but it somehow felt leisurely (although I did get sunburnt, whoops). Along the way, you’ll walk through a neighborhood, and you can also hop down onto some smaller beaches, but the walk culminates in Plage des Catalans, about a 20 minute walk from Vieux Port. Fun fact: the full name of this walk is actually “Corniche du Président John Fitzgerald Kennedy”

View from Le Corniche walking towards Vieux Port — Views from Le Corniche

Le Petit Train Touristique. I feel like a lot of cities have this experience, but it’s definitely a fun one. In Marseille, there are two circuits from which to choose: 1) Notre Dame de la Garde, and 2) Le Panier (the oldest part of Marseille) and Old Town. Both cost €8 each, and last anywhere from 1h15-1h45, including stops. I chose to do the first circuit, and it winds you up to Notre Dame de la Garde, and lets you get off an explore. Another train comes every 20 minutes, so you can easily come back down whenever you want. The departure point is on the Quai du Port side of Vieux Port, closer to MuCEM than the port’s square.

Food. There’s a lot of diversity in Marseille, and that extends into the cuisine. I was told to try the couscous, and I wholeheartedly agree. I tried Sur le Pouce, and not only were the portions huge and delicious, but I was seated, and served, within five minutes! I also loved this falafel sandwich I had at Au Falafel, and even though I’m a sucker for falafel, this pita was PACKED with several falafels and kind of blew my mind.

Other points of interest include Le panier, the oldest part of Marseille (and one that’s been continuously occupied I believe), Notre dame de la major, another architecturally beautiful cathedral located near MuCEM, and les terrasses du port, which is another large shopping center, but with a terrace up top with a view of the whole port. There is also Calanques, the national park, which requires more time in order to complete but is easily accessible via bus or boat from the city. I hear the views are amazing up there, but I didn’t have time to make it out there.

I ultimately ended up taking an earlier train than planned out of Marseille as I felt I had done everything I wanted to in the two days I had there, but I’m glad I’m not saying I wish I had way more time, as that’s always frustrating when traveling!

36 hours in Lyon

On April 9, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

Stop two on my journey around France, and even though it was on the shorter end, that doesn’t mean that I didn’t cram it full with exploring the city. With so little time, I did really only hit the big things to see, but I still feel like I made the most of my time!

I left Strasbourg a little before 11 in the morning, and had to take three trains to get to Lyon: a commuter train (TER) to Mulhouse, a TGV to Dijon, and another TER to Lyon. It was definitely a lengthy commute, so by the time I had dropped my stuff off at my hostel, it was pushing 5:00pm. As such, I opted to take the metro (I know, I was shocked to learn Lyon has not only a bus system, but a tram system, and a metro as well! Talk about a well connected city) to Vieux Lyon. From there, I walked about 15 minutes up several steep steps and switchbacks to the Fourvière Basilica, which is situated atop a hill (somehow the small detail of its high location had been omitted from my research)… at the top, you’re greeted by a towering basilica, and a beautiful view of the city. You can enter the basilica, which has crypts, and imposing ceilings in the main area of the church. For me, the view was the highlight of this particular expedition. I decided to take the funicular down instead of walking it (call me lazy), which took considerably less time than it took me by foot.

View of Lyon from the hill near the Basilica — View of Lyon from up high

Basilica Fourvière from river level — Basilica from river level

I ended up spending a decent amount of time admiring the view, so I merely wandered back through Vieux Lyon, and part of Presqu’île (the happening area of Lyon as the internet has told me) on the way back to my hostel. In case you’re thinking that I didn’t accomplish much, I did manage 24,000 steps with five hours spent aboard a train, so I feel like I made use of the limited daylight I had after I arrived.

Tuesday, however, was a busy (and full) day. I headed back to Vieux Lyon to check out the cathedral, and although much of it is currently under construction, it’s still impressive. There was stained glass, so automatically I was into it, but after a while, the cathedrals do tend to resemble each other a little, at least to me…

I hopped onto the metro to head over to the Parc de la tête d’Or, a giant park located in the city. There are several entrances but from any of them, you’re greeted with sprawling greenery, trees, and people sunbathing if the sun is out. If you walk far enough, you’ll end up at the zoo. Yes, you read that correctly: a Z O O. It’s free entry, and is literally just inside the park. I was shocked to say the least! The animals are in enclosures, but you can see giraffes, zebras, monkeys, and even crocodiles. It takes up a decent amount of space, and it’s cool that they’ve used it for animal preservation, although I’ll admit that Lyon is not one of the top places I would have expected to have a zoo. There’s also a lovely lake, as well as botanical gardens within the park, so you could easily spend some quality time there.

Lake in the parc de la tête d’or — Lake in the park

I decided to treat myself to a nicer lunch (it being my birthday and all), so I went back to Presqu’île to Rue Mercier to explore the many eateries there. I decided upon The Salmon Shop, and had their delicious smoked salmon meal plan. It was well worth the visit, and I enjoyed the apple crumble that came along with my meal (insert heart eye emoji here). The plate of smoked salmon was absolutely filled, and it was more than I could eat, so I would definitely recommend eating here!

After lunch, I took the Lyon City Tram. It’s a one hour circle around the city, including an audio guided history (available in English, as well as French) along with pointing out major things to see as you drive on your way. I definitely saw things I wouldn’t have otherwise, whether because I wouldn’t have known where they were or because I wouldn’t have pegged them as something I would’ve wanted to see. The tram has a sky roof, and many windows, so no matter where you’re sat, you’ll have a great view as the city passes you by. An adult ticket costs €9, and I opted for an afternoon journey, but I will say that the timetable wasn’t the easiest to find online. I ultimately showed up at what I thought was its starting time (based on the internet) and discovered that the first run wasn’t until another 90 minutes later. That being said, I’m still glad I did it, especially as I got to then see the murals that adorn several walls in Lyon.

One of the murals in Lyon — One of the many murals in Lyon

Ultimately, I wasn’t able to get to everything in Lyon, but I’m still pleased with myself. Had I been able to, I would’ve wanted to visit the Musee des Beaux Arts, and the Musée Gadagne, but they were both closed on Tuesday, and I didn’t have enough time Monday to get to them before they closed. Even with that though, I’d be LYON if I said that this city wasn’t a fun one to explore (get it? Like “lying”? Good. Thought it’d be fun to end on a pun this time).

A weekend in Strasbourg

On April 7, 2019 By notyouravggiraffeIn France, TAPIF, Travel1 Comment

For my April holidays, I decided to do a mini “Tour de France,” and as such, am hitting many big cities in France during my two weeks. My first stop was Strasbourg, and after arriving late Friday night, I had the full weekend at my disposal!

Getting from Strasbourg to Angers isn’t the easiest journey, but part of that is due to the station change in the middle. I had to take a train to Paris Montparnasse, and then descend into the metro to get to Gare de L’Est to catch the train to Strasbourg. Let me tell you, I never want to switch between those stations ever again. The SNCF website told me I’d have plenty of time in my 1h13 “layover” to change stations and yet, I only got to my train with 20 minutes to spare. I know, I know, you’re thinking that’s plenty of time, but it is a SHLEP to get from the train at Montparnasse to the metro platform, and I dread to think of doing it with more than just a small rolling suitcase (never again friends, never again).

My Saturday was chock full of walking (35,000 steps to be exact, and yes, that merits a special badge with my Fitbit), but I definitely managed to see a lot. Although long, I walked 40 minutes from my hostel to the European Parliament. I could have taken the tram, but part of me wanted to walk and see what I could of the city (there are ample trams/busses in this city, so no issues if you don’t want to walk most places). The European Parliament offers guided tours in French and German, as well as audio guided/multimedia tours in the 24 recognized EU languages (can you name them all?…because I can’t). Both of these options happen at specific times, and these change depending on whether Parliament is in session, so be sure to check online if you’re interested in visiting this government building! I arrived for the 10:30am audioguide tour, and although there are no reservations needed, it is on a “first come, first served” basis, so I wanted to ensure I was early. The tour is free, but you need to bring government ID in order to be issued a visitor’s pass to proceed with the tour.

I spent about 90 minutes there, and I thought it was really cool. Having visited the UN in Geneva, it’s super interesting to see how other parliamentary buildings function and look. We were allowed to visit the hemicycle, where parliament sits (we did the full 360 loop around), as well as an interactive area called the “parliamentarium,” which includes a selfie booth, and multimedia areas to learn about the elected members, and other fun facts about the European Parliament. Overall, I would highly recommend a visit if you’re in the area!

Visiting the hemicycle in the European Parliament in Strasbourg — Standing in the observation area of the hemicycle

I once again took off on foot (I can’t say I did things the most efficiently) to the Petite France neighborhood of the city. Petite France is part of the historic region of Strasbourg, and has many of the architecturally iconic houses associated with Alsace, and the 12/13th centuries. You can also cross over the covered bridges, and envision what life used to be like for those living in Strasbourg centuries ago. It’s a fun little area to explore, especially when the weather is nice. Petite France is also home to the Barrage Vauban, a 17th century bridge, that also probably served as a defense system when it was built. You can climb to the top terrasse for a view of Petite France, and see it stretch into what is now modern Strasbourg. View from the top of the Barrage Vauban

View from the Barrage Vauban

After picking up some lunch to satisfy the energy depletion that came with all the walking, I decided to explore some of the many churches in the area. I started with the catholic Eglise St Pierre-Le-jeune, and followed it up with the Protestant Eglise St. Thomas. I ended my church expedition with the Cathedral of Strasbourg, which has a striking façade, and is immense. The inside was a little dark to me, but the outside is certainly something which should be admired. If you need to be convinced further, check out this photo and let it convince you:

I also sought out the synagogue, and I was not expecting it to be as big as it is. The outside is imposing in size, and it’s nice to know that Strasbourg is keeping in line with its religious roots. There is also the old Jewish quarter you can explore, which includes Rue des juifs, and although there’s little physical evidence of a presence left, it still did exist.

To round out my Saturday, I had a bretzel (yes, you’ve read that correctly, BBBBBBretzel. Who’s correct, you ask? If only I knew. It’s confused me and I would like to know so I can properly call them either a pretzel or bretzel).

As I happened to be in town on the first Sunday of the month, all the museums were free, so naturally I stockpiled the museums for my last day in the city. Coincidentally, it also wasn’t as nice of a day on Sunday, so it worked out for the best that I had planned to be inside most of the day.

I started out my morning at the Musée Alsacien, a museum of Alsatian history. It’s housed in an older style Alsatian house, and offers traditional costumes, furniture, housing layouts, and other various items from different eras of Strasbourg’s history. In doing so, it acknowledges the rich cultural, and religious history that exists within the region, and the way in which it has almost separated itself from the rest of France in that way (it’s still French, believe me, but you can see the outside influence, and the way it operates just a smidge differently). I really enjoyed the museum and all the artifacts, as well as its creative layout in using an actual house as the museum!

Right on the other side of the river (as in, right over a bridge), is the Musée Historique de Strasbourg: the history museum. Again, this is a super well done museum that offers a vast amount of history (sometimes even bordering on too much information) about Strasbourg from the Roman days, all the way to its place now as the European capital. It’s very informative, and I loved wandering through the ages, while discovering artifacts, clothing, and the history of the region, which is extremely vast. I imagine you could easily spend an hour or more here!

My last museum of the day was the Palais Rohan, which is a literal palace that houses three museums. Unfortunately, only two were open today (the archaeological museum being closed), but that was a decent amount to explore. I didn’t find this particular museum as interesting as the other two, but it was still a good visit. On the ground floor, there is a decorative arts museum, which focuses mainly on interior design. As you can imagine, it being a palace, there are plenty of ornate items of furniture and tapestry (when you see all the opulence, you can understand why the French revolted against the monarchy). There are also China plates, and a random room filled with different clocks. Upstairs, there’s the fine arts museum, which houses European paintings from various centuries. It’s a nice walk through, but not being an art aficionado myself, I don’t need sprawling rooms of paintings to get my art fix.

I feel like I definitely got the most out of my weekend in Strasbourg, and that I can honestly say I’ve seen what I wanted to see! I’m glad I decided to come out here as part of my mini Tour de France, and after starting out so strong, I’m even more ready for the next cities. Next stop: Lyon!

Not Your Average Giraffe

Month: April 2019