After being home in the US for two weeks now, I can definitely sense some differences between French and American society. I’ve been reflecting on my time during my contract since touching down stateside, and although I’m preparing a different post to discuss that, I thought I’d write a fun little blurb first.
I haven’t found it too difficult jumping back into the US (although not hearing French everywhere was a little weird at first), but that being said, there are parts of French life that I miss (and of course, some I don’t)- and some I wish would be implemented over here…
Public transportation
Something I know I remark about constantly, but it’s true! A lot of the larger cities in France (and even some of the smaller ones) have some form of public transportation. Meanwhile, the US can’t seem to really make it accessible to most, or at least, that’s the case where I live. In Angers alone, there were several bus lines that serviced suburbs (both schools where I worked were half an hour away from city center and I could get there by bus), and a tram line (with another being built). At home, I’m constantly aware of my having to drive everywhere, and how much more stressful, and sometimes tiring, it can be.
Train travel
Along with public transport, the access to trains in France (and a lot of Europe to be fair), and where they can take you, is unlike anything in west coast US. I miss knowing that I’m under a 10 minute walk away from the train station, and consequently, from an adventure. Being able to travel to so many places via train was so great, and I miss being able to take advantage of it. Not to mention, there’s no airport security stress, fear of not allowing enough time to clear security and check in, and just overall it’s a less stressful experience (in my opinion).
Baguettes, croissants, and pain au chocolats (oh my)
I would be amiss to say that I don’t miss classic French pastries, and the ability to get them whenever, and wherever. Being able to find a boulangerie in under five minutes is a pretty impressive feat, and I loved smelling fresh bread waft down the street if I timed my pastry buying just right. I miss having a baguette with every lunch (although I probably shouldn’t, for health reasons). I miss finding a La Mie Caline and getting their €2 breakfast deal, or their lunchtime menu. Really, I miss the food aspect of French life, and that should come as no surprise.
The history
Europe is lucky in the sense that their streets, buildings, museums, and culture is very richly steeped in history. France is no exception, and I loved learning about French history in the places where history happened (reliving Jeanne d’Arc’s trial in Rouen, seeing the famous tapestry in Bayeux, or la petite France in Strasbourg). There’s always more to discover, and I miss the feeling that comes with seeing a 12th century castle in the middle of town, and having people pay it no mind.
Meandering around
Along with the rich history, walking around cities in France feels so much different than walking around cities in the US. Even though there is modern architecture, it’s intertwined with older style buildings, cobblestone paths, and a sense that there’s more to the area than what meets the eye. I always found it calming to take a walk around Angers, and to run into the jardin du Mail, the castle, or even a new museum I didn’t know existed. I miss that sense of discovery when wandering, and even the impulse to wander that seems much weaker to me in the US.
Accurate Pricing
Even though I’m used to having to add tax when I pay for things in the US, part of me misses taking something off the shelf, and knowing exactly how much it’s going to cost me at the till because the tax is already built into the price. It makes things so much easier!
Sacred meal times
I miss the sanctity of eating in France, and the importance of taking your time to actually enjoy your meal. I don’t necessarily miss having two hours for lunch, but I miss the incentive behind it. There’s something reassuring about knowing you won’t be rushed to finish your meal at a restaurant, your café with your breakfast, or to eat that tasty dessert you’ve ordered because this is France after all. I find the attitude that food should be enjoyed, and given attention to, is a good one, and I miss the food reverence (for lack of a better word).
The French language
A large part about living in France, is hearing the French language (and having to use it) constantly. In the same way that it feels natural to hear and speak English at home, I was able to get to that point in France, and I sometimes miss hearing the melodic tones of French, or seeing a miffed French person do the classic puffer fish air blowing shoulder shrug move (if you know, you know). Even though it is an infuriatingly frustrating language to speak (between the masculine and the feminine, the silent letters, and ever growing argot phrases), that doesn’t make it any less beautiful to hear, and some days, I miss it.
As my last little adventure before I head home, I spent two and a half days in Berlin. It’s a great city to visit, and there’s so much to do there: whether you’re looking for museums, monuments, history, or nightlife, Berlin has it all. Since I was only there for a short amount of time, I really focused on what sounded interesting to me (while also being a point of interest in general). With that in mind, here’s a list of things I visited, and that I think others might enjoy if they visit Berlin as well. Here we go!
Teufelsberg Hill. Following the end of the war, women of working age were tasked with clearing the rubble from the city of Berlin, and moving it to the outskirts of town. In doing so, they created hills which you can now climb and explore. This particular one offers sweeping views of the Berlin skyline. The hike up the hill is also full of greenery, and feels very removed from the bustling city life below.
Cost: Free
Get swept away in the view of the skyline and the greenery around you
Brandenburg Gate. A symbol of the division between East and West Berlin, this imposing structure is remarkable from both sides. There’s an S-Bahn station that takes you right there, and you’ll be greeted with its enormity immediately. Definitely a must see.
Cost: Free
Memorial to the murdered Jews of Europe. Located right next to Brandenburg Gate, this moving memorial represents the millions of Jewish individuals killed during the Holocaust. The memorial consists of multiple concrete slabs in various heights, but there is no concrete interpretation of the slabs, so you are free to interpret the monument how you like. You can walk through it, and also visit the information center underground which houses six rooms dedicated to the history of the holocaust, how it affected individuals in 15 different nations, as well as ways to both see and hear the words of those persecuted. The line may seem a little daunting, but that is due to a security check before you can start exploring the museum.
Cost: Free
Jewish Museum. Unfortunately, the permanent exhibit was closed when I visited (under refurbishment until spring 2020), but I was able to see the architecture of the building, along with a temporary exhibit. Without the permanent exhibit, there isn’t too much to see, but you have access to the underground level, which has relics from Jewish families either recovered or donated following the end of the war, the garden of exiles, the Holocaust Tower, a space dealing with the memory void, and the temporary exhibit (which dealt with the Hebrew alphabet when I visited).
Cost: €5/€2 (reduced)
Topography of Terrors. Located near Checkpoint Charlie, this museum is a combination of interior and exterior exhibitions. Outside is a part of the Berlin wall, along with a history of Germany from 1933-1945. It was very easy to follow and digest. Inside is dedicated to a more thorough examination of those same years, and the terrors experienced by those living under axis powers during WWII. There’s a lot of reading involved, but it’s interesting reading. As it’s a free museum, you can spend as little or as much time as you like, or even come back if you don’t want to finish it all in one go! There is also an audio guide available if you want to explore that option.
Cost: Free
Checkpoint Charlie. Another iconic symbol of the time of divided Berlin. It’s now mainly just a photo opportunity, but it’s worth it to see the sign announcing which side you are entering, along with the point where Americans would guard entrances and exits into the West.
Cost: Free
Checking out the checkpoint
Mauer Museum. Located right next to Checkpoint Charlie, this museum explains in depth about the wall, its ramifications, and how it impacted the east and the west. You’ll learn about the many ways eastern Berliners used to escape to the west, and about the helpers who made some of those escapes possible. The museum touches on the political climate as well surrounding the time of the wall. My only complaint would be the sheer amount of text, and its occasionally high placement making it difficult to read.
Cost: €12/€9.50 (reduced)
Part of the museum’s extensive exhibit
Checkpoint Charlie Blackbox Museum. Right next to the Mauer Museum, there’s a smaller museum also dedicated to the Cold War, and the impacts of the war. It also connects into the Korean War, Cuba missile crisis, and other issues of the time such as the threat of nuclear war, and the conflict between the US and Russia. There is also a free exterior exhibit with photos and information, creating a sort of open air exhibition as well. There are relics inside, and if you’re not interested in the vast amount of information from the Mauer Museum (or want to save some money), this is a less intense, although equally interesting, alternative.
Cost: €5/€3 (reduced)
Berliner Dom/Berlin Cathedral. An impressive cathedral, the ticket for this gets you entry into the cathedral, the crypts, and the dome (which was what I really wanted to do). It’s a 181 step climb, but at the top you have a 360° view of Berlin, as well as a closer view of the statues on the side of the cathedral’s dome. It’s a great viewing place, and if you’re interested in cathedrals as well, it’s two for the price of one!
Cost: €7/€5 (reduced)
Gaze out onto the city from the top of the dome
Bebelplatz. A square located near the museum island, where books were burned towards the start of WWII. In commemoration of this, there’s a clear square in the center where you can look underground into a white room with empty shelves to symbolize all the books that were lost to the burning.
Cost: Free
Anne Frank Zentrum. A museum dedicated to Anne Frank (the exhibit is called “all about Anne,”). I visited because initially I had planned on going to Amsterdam before heading home, and visiting the Anne Frank House, but since my plans changed, I thought this was a good way to honor those initial plans. It’s a really easy to digest exhibit, and includes lots of photographs and information. I found it quite enlightening, and that it was presented in a really good way.
Cost: €6/€3.50 (reduced)
Berlin Wall Memorial. If you’re interested in seeing the real Berlin Wall, in its actual location where it stood for so many years, this memorial is a place to visit. There’s a decent stretch of wall, as well as information regarding those who tried (and succeeded) to escape from the east to the west. There are tiles along the ground showing you were tunnels were dug as part of the escape tactics. It goes along a decent stretch of land, along with unearthed parts of the land from before the wall was built. It’s a nice walk outside as well!
Cost: Free
East Side Gallery. Another stretch of wall, although not in its original location. This is a fun place to check out due to all the art work on the wall. There’s stretches of professional artwork all along the canal, and it’s fun to see the messages they carry. It’s a little further out from central Berlin, but if you’ve got some spare time, it’s worth a visit!
Cost: Free
One of the many artworks on the wall in the East Side Gallery
Reichstag. The parliamentary building in Berlin. A beautiful exterior, located right around the corner from the Brandenburg Gate. You can visit inside for free, but make sure to book your time slot well in advance if you want to see the dome (I didn’t look early enough, so nothing was available, but you can also check in the morning for cancellations), but the outside is well worth a look if you don’t go inside!
Cost: Free
Other useful things to know:
Transport is validated on a little machine before boarding. Don’t forget to do it! A one way trip is €2.80, while a day pass is €7
Download CityMapper to help you get around the city
If you decide to visit the museums on museum island, check out the combo tickets if you’re going to do more than one
Since there’s so much to do, planning out your day in advance can allow you to avoid having to double back or walk long distances
Ever since I did a project on Prague in fourth grade, I’ve wanted to visit, and FINALLY, 13 years later, I’ve done it. I couldn’t leave Europe without popping over to Prague and fulfilling my fourth grade dream (if she could see me now), which brings us to the present day, and my exploration of Prague for five days. Buckle in, it’s a long one:
Day 1 – Getting to know Prague
I flew out of the Nantes airport on Volotea to get to Prague. I’m not a fan of the Nantes airport (very empty in my opinion, and just an odd little airport), so I was already a little stressed, and then the shuttle that usually runs from the train station to the airport (it’s a great service, highly recommend if you’re ever in the area) wasn’t running because it was May 1 and nothing runs on May 1, the ONE DAY OF THE YEAR, and of course, I happened to be traveling on it (cue more stress). That combination did not make for an easygoing morning. However, it was an easy flight, around 2.5 hours, and then I was in Prague!
As in most cities, the airport is not downtown but luckily, it didn’t take long to get my bags so I was quickly on my way. To get to my hostel (and I think most of central Prague), I took the 119 bus to Nádraži Veleslavín (and no, I don’t know how to pronounce that). From the terminus, you can easily hop on metro line A, which can take you to the center of town. I stayed at Post Hostel, and it was a great experience: not too far of a walk from anything (Prague is easily walkable), and close to a metro if you don’t want to walk. Plus, a great hostel vibe, fun theming, included breakfast, and nice rooms – I highly recommend!
Since my first day was really only a half day, I decided just to do a little walk around and find my bearings. I started walking towards Wenceslas Square, and when some rain started falling, ran inside the National Museum. Inside is an ornate building, that feels very important and regal. The museum is on three floors, although floors 1 and 2 (2 and 3 for us Americans), don’t have that much in the way of exhibits. There’s only the pantheon: a room with a domed ceiling, elaborate wall paintings, and sculpted busts, and a whale skeleton hanging in another room. The real exhibit however, is on the lowest level, where they dedicate several areas to the Czech-Slovak experience and history. It’s pretty interesting to explore it all, although I will say that the ordering of it was a little confusing. This exhibit then led into another called “2×100” commemorating the 200th anniversary of the museum, filled with a variety of items ranging from a piece of a meteorite, to an Olympic gold medal, to skeletons.
Interior of the National Museum
When the sun started shining again, I walked down to the Old Town Square, and managed to time my arrival close to the hour, so I got to watch the astronomical clock ring in the hour. Every hour, there’s a little “show” (I can’t think of a better word) with figures that date back from the 15th century. I believe it’s the oldest operating astronomical clock but I could be wrong. Either way, it’s a must see, and only takes a minute to watch (although the clock is something to see regardless).
Astronomical clock preparing to ring in the hour
Once I was satisfied with my clock viewings, I walked further on until I reached Charles Bridge. It’s a long bridge that crosses the Vltava River, and it takes a surprising amount of time to cross. There are statues along the entire way, as well as beautiful views of both sides of Prague on either side of the river.
Czeching out the views
I didn’t spend much time on the other side of the bridge, although I did make sure to try a Trdelník, or a chimney cake. They’re (according to the signs) a traditional Bohemian sweet pastry, and they are DELICIOUS. There’s somewhere selling them almost every 10 steps, so no excuse to not try one. I tried one with chocolate coating on the inside, and the closest way I can explain them is a very lightly friend elephant ear (soft and doughy rather than crunchy), coated in cinnamon on one side, then wrapped in a swirly cone formation. I have not a clue in the world how to pronounce this delicacy, but know that I ate my share of them.
First (of what would be many) chimney cakes
Day 2 – Exploring religion and views
Since the weather was nice, I opted to walk the 40 minutes to the Jewish Quarter to start my day at the Jewish Museum. I should say that the museum houses multiple buildings, and depending on the ticket you choose, you’ll have entrance to some, or all, of the buildings. I opted to see them all because “why run away from what you came to see,” right? It was certainly a lot to see, and a lot of information, but I particularly enjoyed getting to see the variety of synagogues, whose interiors all differ in subtle ways, as well as all the artefacts that have been preserved (which is remarkable when you think about how many Czechs were deported and never returned during WWII). I was a fan of all the spice boxes, including one in the shape of a fish!
If you buy the ticket that includes everything, you’ll have entrance to the following: Spanish Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, Maisel Synagogue, Kausel Synagogue, Old-New Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, the Old Jewish Cemetery, as well as a gallery. They’re all very close together, so getting from one to another is simple, and I was able to visit them all in about three hours.
After all the visiting, I decided I had to sample my second chimney cake, and being in the Jewish Quarter, I would’ve been remiss to not have one at the place that sells the “first and only Kosher trdleník”. I went with basic this time, and managed to get one so freshly baked that I needed more napkins to not burn my hands. Insert 100 heart eye emojis here. I think I will definitely miss these.
Once my daily chimney cake craving was fulfilled, I walked over to the John Lennon Wall, complete with large painting of the man himself. I’m not quite sure of the origins of the wall, but it is quite the picture destination.
I walked down to Wallenstein Garden from the wall, which is a large public garden full of fountains, neatly trimmed hedges, and labeled plant life. There’s a koi pond, and other fun little things to explore while you roam around the maze like hedges. The Czech Senate is also housed in the gardens, although I’m fairly sure you can’t enter them.
I wanted to visit the National Gallery but when I visited, there were no exhibits so no art for moi!
As I hadn’t gotten any photos of Prague from up high, I couldn’t miss out on the opportunity to climb some towers. My first tower was Prašná Brána, the powder tower. Only 166 steps up, but once at the top, you can get a view of the city, plus of Petrín Hill (which is where my next tower is located). You can really easily see the blending of old Prague and new Prague from up high, and I love the red colored roofs that adorn the skyline.
Blown away from atop the Powder Tower
If you look in the far(ish) left, you can see something that looks like a telephone pole in the background. That is Petrín Tower, and where I headed next. It’s located on Petrín Hill, and you can walk up, or like me, take the funicular. Tickets for this are a regular transport pass, and it’s a fun journey up the hill as you watch the city get further away from you. You can easily spot the tower when you get off the funicular (it’s modeled after the Eiffel Tower), and once you’ve got your ticket, it’s a jaunty 300 steps up to the top. There’s a lookout point in the middle that’s open air, while the top is not, but you still get the views through the windows. It’s another 360° view, and it really allows you to have a full sense of how big Prague truly is. I also enjoyed that the steps up weren’t in an enclosed space, so it felt much more open the whole way up!
Looking onto the river and the city
Right next door to the tower, is a mirror maze, which has to be one of the most random things I’ve visited while on my travels. It is exactly as advertised, and includes lots of mirrors, as well as some of those funky distortion mirrors. It’s a fun little thing, and you can buy a combination ticket with the tower if you feel so inclined.
I decided to walk down the hill since my transport ticket had expired, and ended up walking past the Strahov Monastery. I poked my head in but mass was about to start, so obviously I couldn’t visit. The walk down only took about 25 minutes, and it is definitely a large green space that is worth more exploration time than I gave it!
Day 3 – A day of history
Unfortunately the rain decided to come out today, which made the day colder than I had anticipated (note to self: pack at least one outfit for colder weather next time). So naturally, I spent my whole morning/early afternoon outside or in not heated buildings. I walked up to the Prague Castle, which is situated not too far away from the Petrín Tower. The castle, and everything within its walls, can be visited, although depending on the ticket you choose, you’ll only have certain areas you can enter (basic entrance to the grounds is free). I bought circuit A, which includes the most, so here’s an outline of what I visited:
St. Vitus’ Cathedral
Old Royal Palace
The story of Prague castle (exhibition)
St. George’s Basilica
Golden Lane with Daliborka Tower
Rosenberg Palace
It’s definitely a lot, and I think if I redid it, I’d get the B circuit, which includes four of the six from above, excluding the exhibit, and the Rosenberg Palace. Although the exhibit is interesting, you can enjoy the castle without it. It’s fairly lengthy, but it does have a lot of artefacts, and is situated below the Old Royal Palace, so you can see the “underbelly” of the Palace at the same time as seeing things that have been found on the grounds.
The most stunning thing to visit is the cathedral, with its many stained glass windows, high ceiling, and classic Gothic architecture. Golden Lane is also a fun little street filled with houses that are on the outskirts of the castle, where you can explore what life used to be like when the castle was an active part of Prague. My only complaint (in addition to the weather), was that the entire visit was absolutely packed with people, both individuals visiting as well as many, many tour groups. I had to wait half an hour to enter the cathedral, and at various other points, I had to queue in order to continue on with my visit.
St. Vitus’ Cathedral
There is also a little market within the walls of the castle where you can get food, and little trinkets as well! It’s a very cute set up, and I imagine would’ve been more enjoyable had the sun been out!
After having hit everything on my ticket, I treated myself to another chimney cake (count for the trip to date: three). Having never been to Eastern Europe before, and having extensively studied the Cold War in high school, I thought it was important to learn about how that impacted the East from a nation that actually experienced it. With that in mind, I visited the Museum of Communism, and was not disappointed. It’s a very extensive museum, and thoroughly details the rise of communism to its fall. I definitely learned some new things, and it was interesting to get to see posters, currency, and other items from a Communist Bloc country, since my learning has been very Western leaning. It is a little bit of a more expensive museum, clocking in at 250 CZK for students, but I figured that since I don’t know when else I’ll be in a formerly communist country, I shouldn’t waste the opportunity.
Day 4 – A sobering moment of reflection
For my last day, I decided to head out to Terezin. I had initially booked a tour, but that ended up being cancelled due to a lack of numbers, so I made my way there myself. Via train, it takes about an hour, and from the station (Bohusòvice Nad Ohrí), another half an hour ish walk. You can choose to visit the small fortress, or the areas pertaining to the ghetto, or both. I opted due to time to just visit the areas related to the ghetto, which includes an exhibit relating to the artwork (drawings, paintings, theatre) that have survived, the Ghetto Museum, Columbarium and funeral rooms, crematorium (which was closed on Saturday), and an attic room paired with a prayer room dating from the times of the ghetto. It’s a poignant visit, and I think an important one. Even though it is interspersed with modern buildings now, it is easy to see how much area it takes up, and if you cross over to the small fortress, it’s even more clear. Terezin differs from how many textbooks discuss concentration camps, as it was primarily a base for further transports, and did allow prisoners some cultural freedom (children learned clandestinely, there were theatre shows performed…). It wasn’t the image I had in my head when I arrived, but the museums are well done to thoroughly explain what life was like, how it came about, and how it came to an end. If you have some spare time during your visit to Prague, it’s an important day trip, and a sobering look at history.
With that, my time in Prague has come to an end. If you’ve read this far, thank you! and I’m so thrilled I was able to explore this wonderful city. In case you’ve skimmed this article (let’s be honest, we’ve all done it before), here’s a short list of my must-dos… make sure to CZECH some of them out (okay, I’m done now)
Eat as many trdleník as possible (try different combinations, but the classic “basic” one is excellent on its own)
Museum of Communism for an intense overview of how communism impacted the Czech Republic
Climb up Petrín Tower for a sweeping view of Prague
Walk across Charles Bridge and admire the views and statues
Pose for a cool photo in front of the John Lennon Wall
Explore Prague’s Jewish history through the Jewish Museum
Admire the stained glass windows in St. Vitus’ cathedral
Watch the astronomical clock ring in the hour, and enjoy some time in Old Town Square
Wander through the streets and see what you find!
Useful things to know
At the time of this publication, 25CZK = 1€ and 23CZK = $1 (always good to know the conversion rate when you visit)
A lot of places take card, but it can be helpful to still have some cash. Some places will take euros, but there isn’t a guarantee you’ll get the change back in euros
Not Your Average Giraffe 